Friday, December 9, 2011

White Superlock 2000 serger and dog bed.

Michelle is looking to buy a serger.  Below is part of her email to me:
Can you recommend any GOOD serger project books, or serging books that you think are invaluable? 
Maybe you could do a blog post on your serger, what you make with it, and how much you love it. *hint hint*  I just didn’t find many blog posts from ‘Sergers’ (people) when I looked.
Even though I own several sewing and quilting books, I only have one serger book.
Singer's Sewing with an Overlock meets all my serging needs.  The pictures are excellent.  The book provides detailed instructions on setting the tension, three-thread rolled hem, gathering and decorative threads.
My serger is a White Superlock 2000, that I purchased new in March 1997 for $700 CAD.
It uses up to four spools of thread, has a differential feed, a scrap catcher tray and a built in thread cutter.
Sergers are even more finicky to thread then sewing machines.  Not only must they be threaded correctly, they have to be threaded in this exact order:
  1. upper looper (blue)
  2. lower looper (purple)
  3. right needle (yellow)
  4. left needle (green)
On my serger the thread paths are colour coded and I marked the threading order with a black permanent marker.
One of the things I love about this serger is that the entire bottom opens up, for easy threading and cleaning.

I usually tie on the new thread colour for threading the upper and lower loopers. Then I manually thread the duel needles.
For this post, I manually threaded the loopers as well as the needles using the same four colours of thread that the guide shows.  This serger is easy to thread.
Here I removed the presser foot.  Needle nose pliers or long thin tweezers are excellent tools for threading sergers.
Before serging anything, always start a thread chain to ensure the machine is threaded correctly and in the correct order.
 Then serge a scrap of fabric to check the tensions.
Whenever, I'm setting the tension on my serger I use contrasting thread colours to quickly identify which loopers or needles require adjusting.  The purple side (lower looper) is the bottom and blue (upper looper) is the top.  The first strips I serged are on the right and the last one is purple on the left.  On the back side the left needle tension was too loose and not even.  I tightened it in six very tiny increments.
The tension disks on this serger are very similar to the upper tension dial on mechanical sewing machines.  It is important to thread the machine with the presser foot up and make sure the thread is set in between the tension disks.
 I'm sewing a denim dog bed for my grand-dog Penny.
 Serging is fun and I love the professional finish.
See the little white button on the harp, just right of the presser foot...that is the built-in thread cutter, pressing it down raises the little blade behind the presser foot.
This is such a cool feature.  I didn't realize what a wonderful thing it was until I used a serger without one.
Serging is quite messy, there is lots of dust and lint from the fabric being cut just before it is serged.  Usually my serger is all dusty, obviously it was vacuumed before the photo shoot.
The dark blue striped denim wasn't wide enough.  The light blue piece is old jeans.
Dog bed completed.  I sure hope Penny likes it.
I use my serger when sewing garments, dinner napkins, tablecloths, tea towels, flannel pj bottoms, nylon bags, cotton bags, Christmas stockings, Halloween costumes, curtains, place mats, hair towels, oven mitts and baby quilts.  It serges wonderful rolled hems on fine fabrics like sheer curtains.  I finish the seams on garments with it.  When I make baby quilts, first  I sew the pieces together, then overlock them and finally top stitch the seams in place using a zig zag stitch on a sewing machine. I do this because baby quilts get washed frequently. For tea towels I serge the edges, then fold over once and hem.
My White Superlock was made in China and is available as a Husqvarna or a Singer serger. The Singer does not have a scrap catcher, but comes with three extra feet.
My only regret with my serger is that I didn't buy it sooner.   Happy serging and sewing.


  1. Thank you Tammy. Hopefully Santa can order my Serger next week!!!

  2. Yay doggie bed! I know a puppy who will love it :D

  3. Thanks so much. I just inherited one of these and have played a little with it and love it already. I have already broken a few needles doing things I shouldn't, not adjusting tension for bulky fabric and not checking if the thread was twisted on spools when reopening after storage. But sometimes I learn lessons the hard way! It was great to see a little overview from someone else. Now that I have to go buy new needles, does it use regular needles? I'm confused by all the needle lingo/numbers and can't seem to match up the numbers with the ones that are available in the stores. Are regular machine needles fine?

    Thanks again.

  4. Hi Steph,
    Thank you very much for leaving a comment. I'm quite delighted to share my experiences.

    Yes the White overlock uses regular sewing machine needles. I use Schmetz universal 70/10 (for shears and thin fabric), 80/12 for cottons and 90/14 for heavy fabric. It will not fit the 100/16 needles they are too big. The differential feed is really important when sewing heavy fabric or very thin fabric. My machine would not serge cut one layer of serged oven mitt material sandwiched to one layer of denim quilted fabric. So what I did with those oven mitts was serged the pieces without cutting the fabric in the serger and then sewed the two pieces together with a sewing machine.

  5. Do you know what the letters P and R mean on the stitch length dial?

    1. Hello Lori, The letter R is the stitch length setting for a rolled edge. This technique is normally used on soft fabrics, such as crepe de chine, georgette, silk and other light weight materials. This technique cuts, folds and overlocks the edge to give a fine 1.5mm rolled edge. I used the rolled edge when making light weight dinner napkins and when sewing shear fabrics.

      The P setting is for Picot or shell edge. This edging is perfect for chiffon, silk or other light weight fabrics.

      These are both three thread stitches. When using the R or P settings the left needle and the stitch finger are removed.

  6. Hi Tammy
    I have this White Serger, the 2000ATS as well and have never been able to figure out how to make it create the Rolled Edge. I can't find my Manual and am at a total loss on what to remove and what to use, and which threads, etc.
    Any hints?? THANKS.

    1. Rolled hems require three not four threads. Remove the stitch finger and the left needle. Set the stitch length dial to "R" Use a thin light fabric. Set the differential feed to less than 1. Try it out on a piece of scrap fabric. Hope this helps you out.

  7. I have had this serger for over 8 years and have never been able to get it to sew any length of times. I doubt if it has 10 hours on it. As far as I am concerned it is a POS. My singer that is 25 year old 3 needle is a much better machine.

    1. Hi Kandilin, sounds like there is something really wrong with your serger, perhaps you got a lemon. Why won't your machine serge, is the thread breaking, poor stitch quality? Have you had it serviced by a professional? I bought my white overlock serger new in 1997. It has serged hours and days at a time with no problems at all. I made this anti-bullying blanket in 2013.

    2. anyone know of a video how to replace the moving cutter blade on a White 2000 ATS

    3. Sorry, I do not know of a video for do-it-yourself. My serger came with an extra cutting blade which to date has not been installed. When that time comes, I'm taking to the Brandon Sewing Centre where I bought it and paying the technician to do it.

  8. I recently acquired my white 2000. I have never serged before so it is a little daunting. My main issue so far, is that I cannot get it to make a chain. I have rethreaded it a couple times, but still no chain... any thoughts?

    1. Hi Allison, My first thought is that it is not threaded in the correct order and/or properly. It is super finicky about that. It could also be tension settings on all or any of the upper/lower looper, right and left needle. Perhaps one or both needles is not inserted correctly. Do you have the manual? If all else fails take it to a sewing machine dealer that sells Pfaff, Singer and Husqvarna/Viking machines.

  9. For those who have lost their manual, I found it online:

    Part 1

    Part 2

  10. Thank you for posting such helpful photos, and thank you to the person above who posted links to the manual!

    It's a longshot, but I'm having trouble with getting the stitch finger installed correctly, and so far I haven't found any help online. Is there a trick? The stitches aren't forming over it and then coming off, they are backing up and getting stuck. Thanks for all the help already, though!! ❤

    1. Hi Rose, Sorry I no longer have this overlock, I gave it to my daughter in Ontario. From memory, inserting the stitch finger was a little tricky because it could be installed with the finger part in the slot instead of slot part. I hope this makes sense. My best advice is to remove it, follow the manual and reinsert it this putting the part you had in the slot out and the finger part in. On page 39 of the manual for a Singer 14J250 serger there is a good illustration that shows how to insert the stitch finger. this pdf file is available for free download at Hope this helps you out.

    2. You're an angel! Thanks so much! The pictures for this are much clearer in the Singer manual than they were in the White manual.

      Thanks again!


    1. Hello Mar, I don't know where you live. I live in Brandon, Manitoba Canada. Parts for my serger are readily available at local Brandon Sewing Centre. My best advice is find a retailer who sells the serger you have to enquire about parts. This serger was also under the Singer name 14J250 so a Singer dealer should be able to get you parts. Hope this helps.

  12. Where i can get parts for this machine¿


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